I swerve suddenly to avoid a pothole in the road and then squeeze in front of an overloaded pickup truck in order to pass a car that abruptly pulls into my lane. I hold my breath as an exhaust-belching tour bus lumbers past and then watch, mesmerized, as a family of four, their dog, and their groceries smoothly ride by, no helmets required. This is a typical excerpt from my daily commute via the SE Asian motorbike, affectionately known as a moto. To a visiting tourist, the traffic here in Thailand looks chaotic, leaving many tourists (dangerously) thinking there are no traffic rules…